Oshima Tsumugi

Oshima Tsumugi is a traditional Japanese textile renowned for its beauty and quality. Produced on the Amami Islands in far southern Japan, this unique fabric is characterized by its intricate patterns and luxurious texture.

With a history dating back over 1300 years, Oshima Tsumugi is deeply rooted in Japanese culture and craftsmanship. Each piece is meticulously handcrafted using a time-honored technique known as kasuri, where the patterns are dyed into the threads before weaving, creating a distinctive blurred effect.

Known for its durability and lustrous finish, Oshima Tsumugi is prized for its ability to withstand the test of time, making it a cherished heirloom passed down through generations—in fact, it is said to last at least three!

Discover the timeless beauty of Oshima Tsumugi and experience the allure of traditional Japanese craftsmanship.

Dyeing Techniques: Techigi-zome

Techigi-zome and dorozome are the traditional dyeing techniques used in the production of Oshima Tsumugi silk.

Techigai-zome involves dyeing the warp (vertical threads) and weft (horizontal threads) separately before weaving. The threads are carefully aligned in mats known as a kasuri mashiro. The placement of each thread within the mat determines exactly what sections will be dyed and eventually create the intricate patterns of Oshima Tsumugi.

The dye is made from a special solution extracted from the sharinbai, a plant known as yeddo hawthorn, which contains tannin acid. The precise alignment of the dyed threads is what gives Oshima Tsumugi its characteristic blurred effect.

Dying Techniques: Dorozome

Dorozome is the process of dyeing the threads with mud. This natural dyeing method uses mud rich in iron oxide, which reacts with the tannin in the silk threads to create a deep, lustrous black color. The mud dye also adds to the fabric's durability and water resistance.

Both techigi-zome and dorozome techniques require exceptional skill and precision, and they contribute to the unique beauty and quality of Oshima Tsumugi silk.

Weaving

At the heart of Oshima Tsumugi lies a meticulous weaving process that has been refined over centuries, resulting in fabrics of unparalleled beauty and quality.

Once the threads are dyed, they are warped onto the loom in preparation for weaving. Skilled artisans use a hand-operated loom called a "tebata" to weave the fabric, passing the weft threads through the warp threads to create the woven fabric. This process requires precision and attention to detail to ensure the patterns are aligned perfectly.

The tebata loom is an essential tool in the production process, allowing weavers to meticulously craft each piece of Oshima Tsumugi silk. The tebata is known for its unique features, including a wide frame that holds the warp (vertical threads) in place and a shuttle mechanism that carries the weft (horizontal threads) across the warp. The weaver uses foot pedals and hand levers to control the tension of the threads and create the intricate patterns characteristic of Oshima Tsumugi.

Weaving requires great skill and precision, as the weaver must carefully align the threads to create the desired design. This traditional weaving technique has been passed down through generations, preserving the artistry and craftsmanship of Oshima Tsumugi silk.

Finishing Touches

After weaving, the fabric undergoes a finishing process to enhance its texture and luster. This may involve washing, steaming, and pressing the fabric to achieve the desired look and feel.

The product is then certified by the overseeing craftsman authority.

Local Textile Houses

Visit one of the local textile houses to learn about the art of Oshima Tsumugi and dorozome. Reach out to Amami Tours if you require guided tours, transport, or interpreting services.

Oshima Tsumugi Village: www.tumugi.co.jp/english/index.html

Oshima Tsumugi Museum: www.oshima-tsumugi.com/en/

Kanai Kougei: www.kanaikougei.com

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